Even in a spa that usually runs 100-104 degrees Fahrenheit, an accurate chemical reading will be available. Question: Can water temperature be too high to get accurate chemical readings from a pool?Īnswer: No. A vinyl liner will make it difficult to detect any "metal" type effects. (Does the cartridge filter element need replacing? Is the sand filter working properly? Is the DE filter holding the DE powder?) If you have an in-ground pool with a concrete type surface with a serious copper problem, then blue or teal color stains will be visible. Make sure the pool filter is clean and working properly with good flow. To balance the chemistry (pH, chlorine, and alkalinity), I recommend the pool also be tested for phosphates. Low chlorine and high pH makes more sense.
Integrity plus pool supply free#
Although it is good to keep your pool free from metals, this is not why the pool is green. It sounds as though you were the victim of an "upsell". Do you have any suggestions?Īnswer: I would question the integrity of the pool store you visited since copper will not turn a pool green. I poured a bottle of Metalfree in but after 24 hours, there was still no change. My pH was high, and the chlorine was low. 3 they said this is what is making my pool green. Question: The pool store measured my copper level at. The company says that somebody used sun creams inside the pool, but they haven't fixed the problem yet. Question: My pool was so clean all the time, but I changed to another company, and my pool is too green. Check this article on using a flocculant: But it sounds like you need a floccing agent and a way to be able to vacuum to waste. If you can't vacuum all to waste, keep the filter clean (daily) and the pump running for as long as it takes to filter out. Some systems just have a valve to open to drain the pool, but depending on the plumbing, sometimes when this is open, some flow can continue through the filter and out the pool returns (even though some of it is going to waste).
In either case, the pool needs to be vacuumed to waste so that EVERYTHING is being vacuumed to waste and not returning to the pool. You mentioned backwashing, so you either have a sand filter or a de filter. You can also add a floccing agent at this point to cause the dead algae particles to clump together.Īnswer: So what is happening is that when you vacuum, much of the "green" is shooting back into the pool. Be sure to use a good algaecide as well, which you can add after a few hours of circulation.
With the filter pump on, broadcast the chlorine evenly over the water, covering the entire pool surface, until all five pounds of shock, or all ten gallons of liquid chlorine, have been used. Use five pounds of granular shock, or 10 gallons (four 2.5-gallon jugs) of liquid chlorine. You'll save a great deal of money, and you will need chlorine in the future for small doses from time to time. I suggest purchasing a 25-pound container of granular chlorine, rather than the individual one-pound bags they sell at pool stores or large chain stores. Once your pH is 7.2 or below, you are going to shock the pool with granular chlorine (calcium hypochlorite). Test the pH again after shocking and four hours of circulation. Don't worry that you may have added a little too much, because the pool can be a little acid (low pH) for swimming purposes but still at a good pH for shocking. If the pH is high, add one gallon of muriatic acid, which should be enough.
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